Finding solutions – And working for a breakthrough

Understanding the skin physiology and functions and finding effective and active ingredients are the relevant steps in developing innovative dermo cosmetics. This involves intensive research. Combining multiple scientific disciplines and research and dermatologist insights, ensure that Eucerin sets its own standards in terms of modern skin care solutions.

What is it that makes Eucerin skincare products so effective? The centerpiece of every Eucerin product is a so-called “key active” – the active ingredient.

Because actively improving the appearance of wrinkles, inhibiting sun-induced skin damage or combating blemished skin calls for powerful formulas with effective substances. So when it comes to developing a new product, our research teams will start by identifying an optimal key ingredient that will work for the skin concern in question. Not an easy task, as this involves intensive and laborious research and testing procedures that can take up several years.

To achieve this goal, more than 500 Beiersdorf scientists work at decoding the complex processes that occur in the skin and researching the metabolic processes that take place in the individual skin cells. Efficient and active ingredients – both those found in the skin and from other sources – are the key to stimulating the natural processes in the skin to keep the skin radiant and youthful looking. Eucerin products protect and sustain the health of skin.

Extensive tests are conducted to examine whether the skin will react to the active ingredient, which needs to fit like a key to a lock to act accordingly. The substance can call for possessing anti-inflammatory properties, speeding up the renewal of skin cells as asked for in anti-ageing creams, or counteracting other specific skin conditions.

Technology inspired by a Nobel Prize-awarded discovery: In 2010, the Nobel Prize winning discovery of Aquaporins – tiny water channels in the membranes of the epidermal cells – provided inspiration for a innovation in moisturisation: the active ingredient Gluco-glycerol (a molecule produced by microorganisms such as blue-green algae) stimulates the formation of new Aquaporins (tiny water channels) in the skin cells, supporting the skin’s natural moisture network. Being able to enhance skin’s moisturisation, it is particularly suited for the care of dry skin and very dry skin. It is contained in Eucerin AQUAporin ACTIVE, Complete Repair and Men’s Deep Moisture.

Moisturising agent: Urea is a substance that occurs naturally in skin and is an integral part of its natural moisturising factors (NMF’s). A deficiency in Urea leads to increased water loss, with clinically dry skin shown to have a 50% lower Urea concentration than healthy skin. Replenishing the skin with Urea can substantially make up for this deficiency. Skin care preparations with Urea can compensate by increasing the waterbinding capacity, thus improving or normalising the skin condition of dry or dehydrated skin. Eucerin introduced its first Urea-containing products in 1991, employing a method of effective stabilisation. You can find Urea in Eucerin Hyal-Urea and Complete Repair products.

The anti-ageing active: A unique combination of short and long-chained Hyaluronic Acid targets a complete cross-section of wrinkles from emerging fine lines to deep, established wrinkles. The formula which combines this two-pronged approach also contains bio-active Glycine Saponin, which is known to stimulate the natural synthesis of Hyaluronic Acid*. Skin’s smoothness is thus increased while lines and wrinkles are visibly reduced. You can find Hyaluronic Acid (among others) in the Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler range.

* in-vitro data

The multipotent active: Licochalcone A is a powerful biological substance derived from the root extract of the licorice plant Glycyrrhiza inflata, and possesses several properties the skin can benefit from: it is anti-oxidant, anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory. It builds an anti-oxidative depot in the deeper epidermal skin layer and offers proven protection of skin cells against sun-induced damages caused by free radicals. This very important ingredient is used in many Eucerin products, such as the Eucerin Suncare, the Anti-Redness products, the AtopiControl range and the DermoPURIFYER Day Care.

Finding a new active key ingredient which fits with the conditions determined by the physiology of our skin like a glove, such as the biological substance Licochalcone A for Eucerin, is as rare as finding a needle in a haystack.

Rainer Wolber, PhD, Head of Research & Development Eucerin